Sunday, 22 November 2009
Calculate-Power-Available-From-A-Given-Wind-Speed
A common question I come across is...
How Can I Calculate the Amount of Power Available at a Given Wind Speed?
Since air has mass and it moves to form wind, it has kinetic energy. You may remember from college that:
kinetic energy (joules) = 0.5 x m x V2
where:m = mass (kg) (1 kg = 2.2 pounds)V = velocity (meters/second) (meter = 3.281 feet = 39.37 inches)
Usually, we're more interested in power than energy. Since energy = power x time and density is a more convenient way to express the mass of flowing air, the kinetic energy equation can be converted into a flow equation as below:
Power in the area swept by the wind turbine rotor:
P = 0.5 x rho x A x V3
where:P = power in watts (746 watts = 1 hp) (1,000 watts = 1 kilowatt)rho = air density (about 1.225 kg/m3 at sea level, less higher up)A = rotor swept area, exposed to the wind (m2)V = wind speed in meters/sec (20 mph = 9 m/s) (mph/2.24 = m/s)
This yields the power in a free flowing stream of wind. Of course, it is impossible to extract all the power from the wind because some flow must be maintained through the rotor (otherwise a solid wall would be a 100% efficient wind power extractor). So, we need to include some additional terms to get a practical equation for a wind turbine.
Wind Turbine Power:
P = 0.5 x rho x A x Cp x V3 x Ng x Nb
where:P = power in watts (746 watts = 1 hp) (1,000 watts = 1 kilowatt)rho = air density (about 1.225 kg/m3 at sea level, less higher up)A = rotor swept area, exposed to the wind (m2)Cp = Coefficient of performance (.59 {Betz limit} is the maximum thoretically possible, .35 for a good design) V = wind speed in meters/sec (20 mph = 9 m/s)Ng = generator efficiency (50% for car alternator, 80% or possibly more for a permanent magnet generator or grid-connected induction generator)Nb = gearbox/bearings efficiency (depends, could be as high as 95% if good)
Saturday, 7 November 2009
100-Ways-To-Save-Our-Planet
In Your Home – Conserve Energy
Clean or replace air filters on your air conditioning unit at least once a month.
If you have central air conditioning, do not close vents in unused rooms.
Lower the thermostat on your water heater to 120.
Wrap your water heater in an insulated blanket.
Turn down or shut off your water heater when you will be away for extended periods.
Turn off unneeded lights even when leaving a room for a short time.
Set your refrigerator temperature at 36 to 38 and your freezer at 0 to 5 .
When using an oven, minimize door opening while it is in use; it reduces oven temperature by 25 to 30 every time you open the door.
Clean the lint filter in your dryer after every load so that it uses less energy.
Unplug seldom used appliances.
Use a microwave when- ever you can instead of a conventional oven or stove.
Wash clothes with warm or cold water instead of hot.
Reverse your indoor ceiling fans for summer and winter operations as recommended.
Turn off lights, computers and other appliances when not in use.
Purchase appliances and office equipment with the Energy Star Label; old refridgerators, for example, use up to 50 more electricity than newer models.
Only use electric appliances when you need them.
Use compact fluorescent light bulbs to save money and energy.
Keep your thermostat at 68 in winter and 78 in summer.
Keep your thermostat higher in summer and lower in winter when you are away
Insulate your home as best as you can.
Install weather stripping around all doors and windows.
Shut off electrical equipment in the evening when you leave work.
Plant trees to shade your home.
Shade outside air conditioning units by trees or other means.
Replace old windows with energy efficient ones.
Use cold water instead of warm or hot water when possible.
Connect your outdoor lights to a timer.
Buy green electricity - electricity produced by low - or even zero-pollution facilities (NC Greenpower for North Carolina - www.ncgreenpower.org). In your home-reduce toxicity.
In Your Home – Reduce Toxicity
Eliminate mercury from your home by purchasing items without mercury, and dispose of items containing mercury at an appropriate drop-off facility when necessary (e.g. old thermometers).
Learn about alternatives to household cleaning items that do not use hazardous chemicals.
Buy the right amount of paint for the job.
Review labels of household cleaners you use. Consider alternatives like baking soda, scouring pads, water or a little more elbow grease.
When no good alternatives exist to a toxic item, find the least amount required for an effective, sanitary result.
If you have an older home, have paint in your home tested for lead. If you have lead-based paint, cover it with wall paper or other material instead of sanding it or burning it off.
Use traps instead of rat and mouse poisons and insect killers.
Have your home tested for radon.
Use cedar chips or aromatic herbs instead of mothballs. In Your Yard
Avoid using leaf blowers and other dust-producing equipment.
Use an electric lawn- mower instead of a gas-powered one.
Leave grass clippings on the yard-they decompose and return nutrients to the soil.
Use recycled wood chips as mulch to keep weeds down, retain moisture and prevent erosion.
Use only the required amount of fertilizer.
Minimize pesticide use.
Create a wildlife habitat in your yard.
Water grass early in the morning.
Rent or borrow items like ladders, chain saws, party decorations and others that are seldom used.
Take actions that use non hazardous components (e.g., to ward off pests, plant marigolds in a garden instead of using pesticide).
Put leaves in a compost heap instead of burning them or throwing them away. Yard debris too large for your compost bin should be taken to a yard-debris recycler.
In Your Office
Copy and print on both sides of paper.
Reuse items like envelopes, folders and paper clips.
Use mailer sheets for interoffice mail instead of an envelope.Use mailer sheets for interoffice mail instead of an envelope.
Set up a bulletin board for memos instead of sending a copy to each employee.
Use e-mail instead of paper correspondence.
Use recycled paper.
Use discarded paper for scrap paper.
Encourage your school and/or company to print documents with soy-based inks, which are less toxic.
Use a ceramic coffee mug instead of a disposable cup. Ways To Protect Our Air
Ask your employer to consider flexible work schedules or telecommuting.
Recycle printer cartridges.
Shut off electrical equipment in the evening when you leave work.
Report smoking vehicles to your local air agency.
Don't use your wood stove or fireplace when air quality is poor.
Avoid slow-burning, smoldering fires. They produce the largest amount of pollution.
Burn seasoned wood - it burns cleaner than green wood.
Use solar power for home and water heating.
Use low-VOC or water-based paints, stains, finishes and paint strippers.
Purchase radial tires and keep them properly inflated for your vehicle.
Paint with brushes or rollers instead of using spray paints to minimize harmful emissions.
Ignite charcoal barbecues with an electric probe or other alternative to lighter fluid.
If you use a wood stove, use one sold after 1990. They are required to meet federal emissions standards and are more efficient and cleaner burning.
Walk or ride your bike instead of driving, whenever possible.
Join a carpool or vanpool to get to work.
Ways to Use Less Water
Check and fix any water leaks.
Install water-saving devices on your faucets and toilets.
Don't wash dishes with the water running continuously.
Wash and dry only full loads of laundry and dishes.
Follow your community's water use restrictions or guidelines.
Install a low-flow shower head.
Replace old toilets with new ones that use a lot less water.
Turn off washing machine's water supply to prevent leaks. Ways to Protect Our Water
Revegetate or mulch disturbed soil as soon as possible.
Never dump anything down a storm drain.
Have your septic tank pumped and system inspected regularly.
Check your car for oil or other leaks, and recycle motor oil.
Take your car to a car wash instead of washing it in the driveway.
Learn about your watershed.
Create Less Rubbish
Buy items in bulk from loose bins when possible to reduce the packaging wasted.
Avoid products with several layers of packaging when only one is sufficient. About 33 of what we throw away is packaging.
Buy products that you can reuse.
Maintain and repair durable products instead of buying new ones.
Check reports for products that are easily repaired and have low breakdown rates.
Reuse items like bags and containers when possible.
Use cloth napkins instead of paper ones.
Use reusable plates and utensils instead of disposable ones.
Use reusable containers to store food instead of aluminum foil and cling wrap.
Shop with a canvas bag instead of using paper and plastic bags.
Buy rechargeable batteries for devices used frequently.
Reuse packaging cartons and shipping materials. Old newspapers make great packaging material.
Compost your vegetable scraps.
Buy used furniture - there is a surplus of it, and it is much cheaper than new furniture.
Wednesday, 1 July 2009
DIY-Wind-Turbine
Basics!I have read countless books, mails, how to guides and the rest on how to build a wind machine, in the end I ditched them all and did it my way!The guides where OK but did not really get to the point, which was insimple terms what do I need to obtain to make one!
My chimney mounted wind machine!
As you can see from the picture above, my wind machine is in motion and it is almost all of the time, so long as there is a breeze it is making free power to supply my battery bank, all day and all night!My wind machine specifications6 x Carbon fibre reinforced plastic blades 3ft long1 x Circular steel hub 3mm steel (Homemade) 150mm Diameter1 x 10Ft standard steel scaffolding pole1 x 4ft Angle Iron type steel for tail1 x Custom mounting swivel bracket (Homemade)12 x M6 roofing bolts, nuts and washers for blade mounting1 x Brooke Crompton 90VDC 3000W permanent magnet DC motor 1 x Length of 16MM 2 core copper twin wire for power transfer1 x 600MM x 300MM x 5MM Perspex clear Perspex for tail fin1 x Lucas blocking Diode to prevent batteries spinning wind machine!
A down to earth explanation of how it works!The reason I chose this particular motor is because when you spin a PMDCmotor then it produces DC, DC is what charges SLA batteries so PMDC motors are the ideal solution for a Homebrew wind machine, these can befound world over in surplus shops, look out for them!So if we spin up a PMDC motor then we produce a DC voltage, the fasteryou spin it the higher the voltage will get.
When you connect a PMDC motor to a battery then the motor spins, this is using power from the battery bank to produce motive force, now if youwhere to manually spin the motor at the same speed as it was trying to goconnected to the battery then effectively the motor would be producing thesame voltage the battery was supplying, so the battery would not be underany load i.e. 12V battery connected in parallel to a PMDC motor spinning ata rate to produce 12VDC produces an equal and opposite electric force.However, once you begin to spin the motor faster than the battery bank voltage then you are effectively charging the battery bank i.e. 12VDCbattery bank connected in parallel to a PMDC motor producing 13.5VDC ischarging the bank or in simple terms putting power into your batteries!
Now we could go into overcharging, regulating, desulfating, trickle charging and more but for now we have the basics in place and we are producingpower and storing it in a chemical form (Batteries) for later re use.
More information:
Blocking Diode Purpose is to allow the produced voltage to flow from the wind machine(PMDC Motor) into the batteries but not the other way, so in wind thebatteries will charge but in no wind the wind machine will NOT rotate.
SLA Batteries Purpose is to store electricity in a chemical form
PMDC Motor Purpose is to effectively use it in reverse to induce a current flow into the motor windings from magnets and provide us with a useful charging currentat the right voltage.
16MM Copper cable Purpose is transport our voltage from the wind machine to the battery bankwith the least amount of electrical resistance, copper is a good electrical conductor but of course it has a resistive value, the larger the cross sectionalarea of the copper conductor, the less resistance we have.
Big really is better when it comes to your cabling!
Solar-Cookers
Solar Cookers or Solar Ovens are very simple, easy to build cookers that use the power of the sun to cook food.
Open fire wood cooking is a huge problem in developing and poor countries. Cooking in a poorly ventilated kitchen on an open fire can cause respiratory diseases and premature death over time. Many poor countries are in hot climates where the population receive many hours of bright daylight for much of the day. Solar cookers are a simple, clean, environmentally responsible way of cooking hot vegetables and meat.
The principle is simple enough. Create a box or enclosure with an open top that is well insulated and has a reflective / mirrored finish on the inside of the container. Inside you place a blackened / very dark, non reflective pot with your raw vegetables and meat in and finally place a clear (Glass / PVC) lid on the top and pop the box in bright sunshine until your food is thoroughly cooked.
More reflective shutters can be added to direct more sunshine into your solar cooker for better results. The preferred material for the reflected surface is Mylar or Melinex but can be substituted with tinfoil, turkey foil or polished stainless steel.
Notes on Mylar: DIY Solar Cooker enthusiasts usually utilize Mylar as it claims a 65% reflectivity.
Something I have recently come across is Diamond Reflective Mylar that claims a 99% reflectivity, how true this claim is I have no data on but I am going to be building and documenting 2 solar cookers and comparing the efficiencies to see what benefit there is using Diamond Mylar over traditional Reflective Mylar.
External Website Links
http://solarcookers.org/
Read and purchase Solar Cookers / Solar Ovens
http://solarcookers.org/basics/how.html
The basics on Solar Cookers / Solar Ovens
http://solarcooking.org/
Large website for Solar Cooking
http://www.sunspot.org.uk/ed/
Fresnel Lense Solar Cooking
http://journeytoforever.org/sc.html
Journey To Forever's slant on Solar Cooking
http://www.builditsolar.com/Projects/Cooking/cooking.htm
Build It Solar provides some interesting information
Monday, 29 June 2009
Sunshine-To-Solar-Help
Solar collectors (solar panels) mounted on a roof are connected to pipes containing a heating fluid mixture of water and antifreeze. When the sun heats up the solar collectors the hot fluid is pumped through the pipes to a heat exchange coil in the new solar hot water cylinder. Here the captured solar energy is transferred from the hot fluid in the coil to the household's hot water supply. The hot water in the cylinder is connected to the taps, shower, washing machine, etc in the usual way.
In order for the solar water heating system to run safely and efficiently, a range of valves are installed in the heating fluid circuit. A series of temperature sensors are connected to a digital solar controller to switch the system on or off according to the solar energy available.
On days of limited sunlight, solar energy alone may not be sufficient to heat the household's water to a usable temperature. In this case your conventional boiler or your immersion heater (if fitted) can be used to further boost the temperature of the solar heated water.
choosing the right system
As with all technologies there are good and not so good solar water heating systems. When choosing a solar water heating system there are a number of points to consider:
Hot water storage cylinder
The size of the hot water storage cylinder is generally determined by the amount of hot water your household uses in a day.
Typical daily hot water usage:
Volume In Litres (litres)
Standard sized bath
60
Corner bath
120
Shower / Power shower
15-60
Washing machine
50
Kitchen sink
15
Bathroom washbasin
5
A new solar hot water storage cylinder is usually fitted in the airing cupboard replacing your existing storage cylinder. If the space around your existing storage cylinder is limited an alternative position or design can normally be agreed.
Size and quantity of solar collectors
Allow around one square meter of collector surface area for every 45 - 50 litres of hot water to be stored.
Position of solar collector
Collectors in the UK work best when facing south and at an angle of around 35 degrees from the horizontal.
Durability
A well designed and constructed solar water heating system should provide many years of good service with little maintenance.
Cost
Assuming a life span in excess of 20 years, solar water heating offers good value for money when comparing the initial investment to the cost of a household's current heating fuels. The costs of conventional heating may increase over the years as existing oil and gas supplies diminish and 'pollution taxes' are levied.
It is also important to consider the cost of electricity to run the solar heating system (pump, controls etc). For a typical home this is less than £5 per year.
Solar water heating cannot be considered good value if the initial system cost is too expensive. For this reason it is important to shop around for a competitively priced system using high quality components.
Tuesday, 19 May 2009
Money-Saving-Tips-On-Building-An-Off-Grid-Homestead
TIP #1: If you buy building materials in small quantity you will pay full retail price. Instead figure out exactly what materials you will need. Include everything from screws to appliances. Make your material list look professional and take it to any large construction supplier like home depot or lowes. Do not talk to a clerk but go straight to the contractor desk or speak to a manager and tell them you are building your own home and would like the contractor discount for buying all the materials from them.
Most building supply stores will give you anywhere from 5% to 15% discount if you buy all material at one time. They may even throw in free delivery if you live within a certain mileage.
If you have to buy in small quantities go to the mom and pop building suppliers with your list and ask the manager for a discount if you buy all your materials from them over time. You will still usually get a discount and be supporting your local dealers.
TIP #2: If you are using solar (I hope) try to buy your panels in bulk for a big discount. Most panel suppliers will give 30% or more for bulk sales of ten panels or more and a smaller discount if you buy more than one. Talk to the owner if possible as salesman rarely have power to discount. Get your power controller and necessary wiring and even batteries from the dealer and get an even bigger discount!
TIP #3: Recycle whenever possible. Good used Doors and windows can be had for free or cheap from most window installers. Get double pane and insulated doors for exterior. They may need painting and might be different sizes but the savings is worth a little extra work.
Good used appliances can be had for free or cheap. Check out your local freecycle website, garage sale, city dump, or look for homes being remodled and make an offer. Sinks, toilets, cabinets, tubs, showers are always being thrown away so do some scrounging and don't waste money on new ones.
New propane appliances can be expensive but if you have or can buy an old rv cheap salvage all your propane appliances to outfit your home.
TIP #4: Design your home for efficiency. Consider how big of a home you really need. Smaller homes are cheaper to build, cheaper to heat and cool, easier to clean and lower in property taxes. Because people are looking for smaller efficient homes they also raise in property value faster than big inefficient homes.
TIP #5: Use the sun and passive energy. Situate you house to take advantage of the sun for winter heating and solar panels. Plant trees for natural summer cooling. Use overhangs to block summer sun and porches for cool resting spots. Passive air turbines instead of expensive air conditioning.
TIP #6: Go solar! There is a fed rebate of 30% for any size solar electric system installed by a professional installer. You can get this rebate even if you do the work yourself if you will contact an installer and ask them to design your system and oversee your work. get them to sign off on the work as being installed professionally and you can get the rebate. Many installers will do this and I do it all the time for clients. If you buy your equipment from them they can get you a bigger discount and they will give you valuable advice for designing the right size system for your needs. It may be worth a few hundred dollars to have their professional experience and you will save a lot in the rebate and having a correctly designed system.
TIP #7: Do the work yourself! Even if you have no building experience you can save a lot by having a knowledgeable builder use you for labor on your own home. Take a construction class or volunteer with a habitats for humanity project or your neighbors construction to learn the skill you need. Home construction is not difficult and most people that have basic construction knowledge can do it themselves or with a little guidance from a knowledgeable builder.
Thursday, 9 April 2009
Lister-CS-Stationar-Engines-Power-Generation
Lister CS (Cold Start) stationary engines, or their Indian clones referred to as Listeroid stationary engines, are one of the most versatile long running stationary engines the world had ever seen. They are more than capable of running on almost any viscous oil including Peanut oil, Canola oil, Vegetable Oil, filtered waste vegetable oil, filtered waste motor oil, diesel oil, crude oil, gearbox oil, sunflower oil and many more. There are a number of enthusiasts out there who are experimenting with running them on a mixture of Fuel Oil and Wood Gas Fumes.
The Lister CS range of engines are Slow RPM (650RPM to 700RPM) 4 stroke single cylinder stationary engines. They are over engineered and have been known to run unattended for in excess of 200,000 hours.
They use the simplest of technology which lends them to less maintenance and breakdowns.
Below is a list of interesting websites that document their progress on Using the Lister CS (Listeroid) stationary engines to provide heating and power for domestic dwellings / Low impact homes.
Using a Lister CS / SOM (Start-O-Matic) Stationary engine to produce both power and heating is commonly referred to as a CHP (Combined Heat Power) CHAP (Combined Heat And Power) or MCHP (Micro Combined Heat And Power)
The Diesel Engine Basics
A diesel engine is an internal combustion engine which operates using the diesel cycle (named after Dr. Rudolph Diesel). Diesel engines have the highest thermal efficiency[citation needed] compared to any internal or external combustion engine.The defining feature of the diesel engine is the use of compression ignition to burn the fuel, which is injected into the combustion chamber during the final stage of compression. This is in contrast to a petrol (gasoline) engine or gas engine, which uses the Otto cycle, in which a fuel/air mixture is ignited by a spark plug.
Diesel engines are manufactured in two stroke and four stroke versions. They were originally used as a more efficient replacement for stationary steam engines. Since the 1910s they have been used in submarines and ships. Use in locomotives, large trucks and electric generating plants followed later. In the 1930s, they slowly began to be used in a few automobiles. Since the 1970s, the use of diesel engines in larger on-road and off-road vehicles in the USA increased. As of 2007, about 50 percent of all new car sales in Europe are diesel.
Ken Boak's Lister
Ken is producing electricity and heat from his Lister CS engine setup in Surrey - Kent.
Ken Boak's Lister Video
Here is a short documentary about Ken Boak's generating plant - Interesting & inspiring.
Robert Bodel's Listeroid
Robert Bodel retired to Texas and lives in a sea container. He uses a Listeroid for power.
David Edgington's CS Book
Covers in great detail the venerable Lister diesel produced between 1929 and the 1980s.
Lister CS Owners Group
Lister CS Yahoo Owners Group - Great place for technical know how.
F1 RocketBoy's Genset
Rocket Boy lives in Florida and has built a backup Listeroid Genset for his home
Lister CS CHP Genset
Another of Ken Boak's earlier venture into using a Lister CS for Power & Heating
UtterPower's Listeroid Page
Interesting Information on Listeroid / Lister CS Stationary engines
Lister Engine Forum
A free online forum dedicated to all things Lister, Lister CS, Listeroid, Start-O-Matic
Lister-Petter
The home of the famous Lister CS Stationary engine! R A Lister
Tuesday, 10 March 2009
Sell-Your-Own-Energy-Back-To-Your-Supplier-Renewable-Energy

If you have installed, or are thinking about installing, a renewable technology which produces electricity, such as a Solar Electricity (PV) system, you may be able to get paid for the electricity it produces. The most common way to do this is to sign up to a buy back scheme with an energy supplier. There are two main tariffs available to do this:
Export tariffs: You are only paid for the electricity that is exported back to the electricity network (you are not paid for any electricity you use). Generation tariffs: You are paid for all of the electricity that your system has generated even if you use it in your own home. There are also some Set Price Tariffs available where a fixed amount is paid by the energy supplier based on the type or capacity of the installation.
Use our buy back tariff search tool
To help you find the right tariff more easily we have developed a buy back tariff search tool. Using this tool will allow you to see details of all the tariffs currently being offered by the energy suppliers.
Click here to go straight to the buy back tariff search tool
Before you start your search you may wish to read the guidance below.
Choosing the right tariff
The answers to the following questions should help you choose the right buy buy back tariff for your situation:
Do you expect to use most of the electricity you generate at home?
If the answer is yes, it is likely that a Generation Tariff is likely to be a better option for you as you will get paid for all the electricity you generate rather than just the electricity that is exported.
If you will be using a small amount of the electricity your system generates then an Export Tariff may be a better option for you.
Will you need to install a new meter?
Total Generation Meter: Most tariffs will require you to have an Ofgem approved Total Generation Meter which should be installed with your system. Total Generation Meters give a running total of the electricity generated by the system in kilowatt-hours (kWh). Export Meter: Most export tariffs require you to have an export meter installed. Some companies will pay for the meter and its installation whereas others may charge you. It is important that you establish the costs before agreeing a contract. Will it affect your import supply?
Most buy back tariffs are dependent on the customer getting their import supply from the same energy supplier, and some suppliers limit the choice of available import tariffs that can be used.
You should check tariffs are on offer from the supplier purchasing your electricity generation and how much your annual bill will be. You will want to take these costs into consideration alongside the export/generation tariff payment.
What else should you consider?
Renewable Obligation Certificates (ROCs) are certificates given to registered generators of renewable electricity produced and sold within the UK. You will be entitled to one certificate for each megawatt hour (or 1,000 kilowatt hours kWh) of electricity you produce.
Some tariffs include a price for ROCs whereby the energy supplier acts as the ROC agent, claiming ROCs from Ofgem on behalf of the customer. However, there are other tariffs where the customer retains the ROC entitlement and must claim these themselves. For ROCs to be able to be claimed you must have a Total Generation Meter installed. Information on which tariffs include a payment for ROCs can be viewed by looking at the tariff details on our buy back tariff search tool.
Some suppliers include the payment for ROCs within the tariff, this means the ROCs are claimed by the energy company on the customers' behalf. If the tariff does not include payment for ROCs then the customer can claim for them separately.
Sunday, 8 March 2009
Grid-Connected-System
Grid Connected System
The grid-connected system generates and delivers electricity to a homes Alternating Current (AC) system without using batteries. The Solar Array (PV) acts like a power generation plant, supplying electricity to the grid. This is becoming very popular in Spain, as the electricity distribution company will buy the electricity from you for 0.4 Eur/Kwh.

- 1 - Grid connect inverter
- 2 - Solar (PV) panel
- 3 - Mains electricity supply
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12V-220V-DC-AC-System-With-Generator
12V / 220V DC/AC System with Generator
This system provides all the benefits of a combined Direct Current (DC) and Alternating Current (AC) system with the added benefit of a standby generator. This is perfect if you have some high demand appliances or your demand exceeds your solar generation ability. It also provides very good resilience for those cloudy winter days when the solar generation will be reduced.

**************************************************************
12V-220V-DC-AC-System

- 1 - Battery
- 2 - Solar (PV) panel
- 3 - Solar Charge Controller
- 4 - Wind generator
- 5 - Wind Charge Controller
- 6 - Inverter
230V-Alternating-Current-(AC)-System
220V Alternating Current (AC) System
This system include an inverter. An inverter converts Direct Current (DC) electricity from the Solar (PV) panels or the wind turbine, to Alternating Current (AC) electricty (230V). With the correct size inverter and electricity generation system, you can run any mains electricity appliance.
- 1 - Battery
- 2 - Solar (PV) panel
- 3 - Solar Charge Controller
- 4 - Wind generator
- 5 - Wind Charge Controller
- 6 - Inverter
12/24V-Direct-Current-(DC)-System
12/24V Direct Current (DC) System
The first system is a Direct Current (DC) system that generates 12 or 24 volts only. This type of system is perfect for high efficiency lighting and a surprising number of 12v appliances. Traditionally all mobile homes and caravans operate on 12v electricity. A visit to any caravan outlet will reveal an amazing number of low voltage appliances from televisions to microwave ovens.
- 1 - Battery
- 2 - Solar (PV) panel
- 3 - Solar Charge Controller
- 4 - Wind generator
- 5 - Wind Charge Controller
Thursday, 5 March 2009
Converting-Sunshine-To-Solar-Hot-Water

Solar collectors (solar panels) mounted on a roof are connected to pipes containing a heating fluid mixture of water and antifreeze. When the sun heats up the solar collectors the hot fluid is pumped through the pipes to a heat exchange coil in the new solar hot water cylinder. Here the captured solar energy is transferred from the hot fluid in the coil to the household's hot water supply. The hot water in the cylinder is connected to the taps, shower, washing machine, etc in the usual way.
In order for the solar water heating system to run safely and efficiently, a range of valves are installed in the heating fluid circuit. A series of temperature sensors are connected to a digital solar controller to switch the system on or off according to the solar energy available.
On days of limited sunlight, solar energy alone may not be sufficient to heat the household's water to a usable temperature. In this case your conventional boiler or your immersion heater (if fitted) can be used to further boost the temperature of the solar heated water.
choosing the right system
As with all technologies there are good and not so good solar water heating systems. When choosing a solar water heating system there are a number of points to consider:
hot water storage cylinder
The size of the hot water storage cylinder is generally determined by the amount of hot water your household uses in a day.
Typical daily hot water usage:
appliance | volume (litres) | |
|---|---|---|
| standard sized bath | 60 | |
| corner bath | 120 | |
| shower / power shower | 15-60 | |
| washing machine | 50 | |
| kitchen sink | 15 | |
| bathroom washbasin | 5 |
A new solar hot water storage cylinder is usually fitted in the airing cupboard replacing your existing storage cylinder. If the space around your existing storage cylinder is limited an alternative position or design can normally be agreed.
size and quantity of solar collectors
Allow around one square metre of collector surface area for every 45 - 50 litres of hot water to be stored.
position of solar collector
Collectors in the UK work best when facing south and at an angle of around 35 degrees from the horizontal.
durability
A well designed and constructed solar water heating system should provide many years of good service with little maintenance.
cost
Assuming a life span in excess of 20 years, solar water heating offers good value for money when comparing the initial investment to the cost of a household's current heating fuels. The costs of conventional heating may increase over the years as existing oil and gas supplies diminish and 'pollution taxes' are levied.
It is also important to consider the cost of electricity to run the solar heating system (pump, controls etc). For a typical home this is less than £5 per year.
Solar water heating cannot be considered good value if the initial system cost is too expensive. For this reason it is important to shop around for a competitively priced system using high quality components.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/homebrewpower/
Wednesday, 10 September 2008
Learn-About-Solar-Panels-PV-Modules
Solar-Electric Panels AKA: solar-electric modules, photovoltaic (PV) panels
PV arrays can increase the system’s daily energy output by 25 to 40 percent. PV panels are a solar-electric system’s defining component, where sunlight is used to make direct current (DC) electricity. Behind a PV panel’s shimmering facade, wafers of semiconductor material work their magic,using light (photons) to generate electricity—what’s known as the photovoltaic effect.Other components in your system enable the electricity from your solar-electric panels to safely power your electric loads like lights,computers, and refrigerators.
PV panels are assigned a rating in watts based on the maximum power they can produce under ideal sun and temperature conditions.You can use the rated output to help determine how many panels you’ll need to meet your electrical needs. Multiple modules combined together are called an array.Although rigid panels are the most common form of solar electricity collector, PV technology also has been integrated into roofing shingles and tiles, and even peel and-stick laminates (for metal standing-seam roofs). PV modules are very durable and long lasting
Learn-About-Backup-Generators-For-Off-Grid-Installations
Backup Generator AKA: The gas guzzler
Off-grid solar-electric systems can be sized to provide electricity during cloudy periods when the sun doesn’t shine. But sizing a system to cover a worst-case scenario, like several cloudy weeks during the winter, can result in a very large, expensive system that will rarely get used to its capacity. To spare your pocket, size the system moderately but include a backup generator to get through those occasional sunless stretches.Engine generators can be fueled with bio diesel, waste oils (Including WVO, WMO, Gear Oil) petroleum diesel,gasoline, or propane, depending on the design. These generators produce AC electricity that a battery charger (either stand-alone or incorporated into an inverter) converts to DC energy, which is combustion engines, generators tend to be loud and stinky but a well-designed solar-electric system will require running them only 20 to 100 hours a year.
Monday, 8 September 2008
Air-Bubble-Lifter-For-WVO-WMO-SVO-For-Turk-Babington-Burners
Air Bubbler Oil Lifts are a great way to regulate various fuel supplies for Waste Oil burners, some great examples are the Turk Burner and the Babington Atomizing Burner.
The schematic above shows you hot to construct one from simple materials.
The principle is as follows: Air is supplied at approximately 6 PSI from a simple low pressure air pump (A fish tank air pump is commonly used in home made devises) down a copper tube to a tee piece, the arrangement is submersed in the oil tank / reservoir to allow the bubbles to rise up the outlet tube, as the bubbles rise up the oil filled tube they push up an amount of fuel oil above them. The more air you supply the more oil is driven up with it.
The above principle can be used in so many different burner applications and situations where a controlled and constant amount of oil is required at the burner nozzle / jet. the oil once passed over the burner nozzle that remains unburned can be easily channeled back into the oil sump / tank and recycled.
Note to consider!
As oils become warmer, as they would in the above setup, they become much thinner (Less Viscous) best practise an such a system would be to monitor the fuel oil until your system is up to a stable running temperature i.e. the oil temperature ceases to rise and then set your running air pressure. A Hasty setup on such a system could cost money and indeed lives (Play safe)
Monday, 25 August 2008
Learn-About-Coal-Gasification
Coal was traditionally gasified to make lighting gas and for running gas engines. With improved pipelines, natural gas began to become popular in the 1940s in the US and so manufacturing gas from coal fell almost into obscurity.
In the 1980s a coal gasification plant was built in North Dakota, with the purpose of converting the local brown coal into high purity methane that could be used for domestic and industrial heating in the local community.
At the time it was built, oil was cheap and so the economics didn't quite work out.
However, one of the by-products of the gasification was large volumes of pure CO2, and a pipeline was built to run 205 miles north up into Sascatchewan, so that the CO2 could be used to pressurise an oil field and get another 20 years of production from the declining field.
The process is detailed here:
http://www.dakotagas.com/Companyinfo/Gasification_Process.html
Coal gasification will likely become a viable energy conversion technology and it has the following advantages:
1. It converts low calorific value brown coal into high energy natural gas that is easier to transport and use.
2. The by-products are easily separated from the process and have commercial value for fertilisers and phenol feedstocks.
3. The CO2 is captured and can be sequestered in oil wells allowing extended production
4. Waste products - toxic metals etc are separated from the mix and can be appropriately handled
5. There is no requirement for an exhaust stack so atmospheric pollution is low.
It is fairly obvious that the world will have to continue to use its coal reserves for producing primary energy - more so with declining petroleum reserves. Coal gasification could be one technique that greatly improves the utilisation of what is generally considered to be a dirty polluting fuel.
As coal fields are exploited, the most valuable grades are consumed first. Coal gasification allows the exploitation of the remaining poorer grades.
The natural gas can be added into the existing pipeline distribution network or can be used at the plant in a combined cycle gas turbine power plant. So the energy in the coal can be exported either as electricity or as methane.
If the coal gasification process runs continuously, the methane can fuel CCGT power plant at times of peak power demand, or compressed and stored at times of low power demand. So by storing the energy in the form of methane it allows you to meet the changing demands put on the power plant. Extra CCGT generators could be spooled up quickly using the stored methane when needed.
By locating these gasification plants close to the coalfields - coal transport costs could be reduced. Energy exported in the form of electricity - possibly using a new HVDC supergrid, would be in great demand during summer months for air conditioning, whilst in winter months, natural gas for home heating may be more appropriate. Either way there is flexability to tailor the exports to meet the changing demands.
Coal gasification is a scaleable technology. Plants could be designed to suit the output of the local coal fields and the demands of the population.
The ND plant uses nearly 6 million tons of lignite per year and from this produces 54 billion cubic feet of natural gas per year - enough to power a CCGT power plant of between 800MW and 1GW.
Monday, 18 August 2008
How-To-Build-A-Electricity-Generating-Wind-Turbine
Lots of info on how to build a wind turbine for electricity here.
http://www.tlgwindpower.com/
Saturday, 16 August 2008
How-To-Convert-A-Freezer-Into-A-Super-Economical-Fridge
Found this in my travels- www.mtbest.net Tells how to convert a freezer into a fridge. This can be a great way to make a very economical Fridge!




