Wednesday, 30 December 2009
Biodiesel-Sunshine-In-A-Jar
Well we are fast approaching 2010 and here at www.homebrewpower.co.uk we are thinking about what we can offer up to our readers and customers.
We have decided that one of the main aims of 2010 will be to produce our own Bio diesel from WVO (Waste Vegetable Oil) We believe we have sourced a supply of waste oil to use for bio diesel production and have the knowledge to create a Bio diesel reactor.
Bio diesel is pretty much ,'Sunshine in a jar' It will provide our diesel van with all the B100 fuel we require.
We are also working towards a WVO powered heating system using Babington technology for heating our conservatory and with forced hot air the garage and workshop areas of our premises. Our aim is to design a fully automated, fail safe Babington heating system that uses waste vegetable oils for fuel.
We will post updates as and when they happen (Time permitting)
Sunday, 18 October 2009
Renewable-Energy-Discussion-Forum
Just a reminder about the HomeBrewPower - Renewable energy free forum.
Please visit the following link and be sure to bookmark it for future reference.
http://apps.homebrewpower.co.uk/Forum/TopicGroup/
Thursday, 2 July 2009
Lister-CS-Stationary-Engines
Lister CS Stationary Engines
Lister CS (Cold Start) stationary engines, or their Indian clones referred to as Listeroid stationary engines, are one of the most versatile long running stationary engines the world had ever seen. They are more than capable of running on almost any viscous oil including Peanut oil, Canola oil, Vegetable Oil, filtered waste vegetable oil, filtered waste motor oil, diesel oil, crude oil, gearbox oil, sunflower oil and many more. There are a number of enthusiasts out there who are experimenting with running them on a mixture of Fuel Oil and Wood Gas Fumes.
The Lister CS range of engines are Slow RPM (650RPM to 700RPM) 4 stroke single cylinder stationary engines. They are over engineered and have been known to run unattended for in excess of 200,000 hours.
They use the simplest of technology which lends them to less maintenance and breakdowns.
Below is a list of interesting websites that document their progress on Using the Lister CS (Listeroid) stationary engines to provide heating and power for domestic dwellings / Low impact homes.
Using a Lister CS / SOM (Start-O-Matic) Stationary engine to produce both power and heating is commonly referred to as a CHP (Combined Heat Power) CHAP (Combined Heat And Power) or MCHP (Micro Combined Heat And Power)
The Diesel Engine Basics
A diesel engine is an internal combustion engine which operates using the diesel cycle (named after Dr. Rudolph Diesel). Diesel engines have the highest thermal efficiency compared to any internal or external combustion engine.The defining feature of the diesel engine is the use of compression ignition to burn the fuel, which is injected into the combustion chamber during the final stage of compression. This is in contrast to a petrol (gasoline) engine or gas engine, which uses the Otto cycle, in which a fuel/air mixture is ignited by a spark plug.
Diesel engines are manufactured in two stroke and four stroke versions. They were originally used as a more efficient replacement for stationary steam engines. Since the 1910s they have been used in submarines and ships. Use in locomotives, large trucks and electric generating plants followed later. In the 1930s, they slowly began to be used in a few automobiles. Since the 1970s, the use of diesel engines in larger on-road and off-road vehicles in the USA increased. As of 2007, about 50 percent of all new car sales in Europe are diesel.
For my complete system design on DVD Rom (Requires A PC To Use) please see my Generate Free Electricity page.
Ken Boak's Lister
Ken is producing electricity and heat from his Lister CS engine setup in Surrey - Kent.
Ken Boak's Lister Video
Here is a short documentary about Ken Boak's generating plant - Interesting & inspiring.
Robert Bodel's Listeroid
Robert Bodel retired to Texas and lives in a sea container. He uses a Listeroid for power.
David Edgington's CS Book
Covers in great detail the venerable Lister diesel produced between 1929 and the 1980s.
Lister CS Owners Group
Lister CS Yahoo Owners Group - Great place for technical know how.
F1 RocketBoy's Genset
Rocket Boy lives in Florida and has built a backup Listeroid Genset for his home
Lister CS CHP Genset
Another of Ken Boak's earlier venture into using a Lister CS for Power & Heating
UtterPower's Listeroid Page
Interesting Information on Listeroid / Lister CS Stationary engines
Lister Engine Forum
A free online forum dedicated to all things Lister, Lister CS, Listeroid, Start-O-Matic
Lister-Petter
The home of the famous Lister CS Stationary engine! R A Lister
How-To-Make-Biodiesel-Bio-Diesel
Learn more about how to make Biodiesel.
I have hand picked some information on the processes and techniques of producing your own 'Green Diesel Biodiesel'
Make Biodiesel At Home Article
How to make Biodiesel at Home
Before we go into the details of producing small amounts of Biodiesel at
home we must first stress the importance of safety. The chemicals used
in the process of making Biodiesel are dangerous and if used without
taking the correct measures to protect yourself can cause serious injury
or even death. Please, please be careful and make sure you are in a well
ventilated area with access to running clean water.
MATERIALS REQUIRED
1 litre of Vegetable Oil- new (SVO) or used (WVO)
NaOH (lye / caustic soda), at least 6g. This is often used as a drain
cleaner and can often be found in your local supermarket.
Methanol (at least 250ml).Used as an Antifreeze, can often we found in
Motor supplie shops
EQUIPMENT REQUIRED
1 to 2 litre Plastic Bottle - I often use an empty Vegetable oil
container
A measuring cup
A scale
OR
A teaspoon
A container to mix the methanol and NaOH (methoxide) Not plastic. Heavy
duty glass is recommended
A Funnel
OIL PREPERATION
If you are using waste oil (WVO), take one litre and heat to at least
120 deg c to remove all water. If water is present the oil will spit and
pop, when the water is removed this will stop. Be careful - this can be
quite a violent process. Then Allow to cool
If you are using new vegetable oil it should not contain any water so
just heat to 55deg c when you are ready.
MAKING THE METHOXIDE
WARNING Making Methoxide is dangerous. Methoxide is highly toxic. For
this reason, the safety of the design of equipment and workspace should
be carefully considered before use, and protective clothing and a
respirator should be worn during handling. Only as much as is intended
to be used immediately should be created.
'YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED'
Take 250ml of Methanol and add 4g (about half a Teaspoon) NaOH.
If you are using Waste Vegetable Oil (WVO) just use 6g- 7g NaOH (about 1
level teaspoon)
Methanol and NaOH do not easily mix. Start with the methanol at body
temp (not warm). NOTE that as you mix the two chemicals the temperature
will increase. Do not panic... is normal. You will need to ensure all
the NaOH is disolved in the Methanol, this could take over ten minutes.
After **ALL** the NaOH has disolved you may need to top up with fresh
methanol as the process may cause some evaporation
MAKING THE BIODIESEL... the final step
When the Oil's temperature has dropped to 60 deg c or less, using your
funnel, pour the litre of oil into you dry plastic container. Take your
methanol/NaOH (Methoxide) and add to the oil. Ensure the container is
sealed securely then shake vigerously for about 15 seconds.
Leave your Biodiesel to "set". You will notice that after about 10
minutes the glycerine or "soap" will settle from your mixture. It will
take a day or two for the Biodiesel to completely separate. You will see
two defined layers - the Biodiesel and the glycerine.Typically the
glycerine layer is about the same or a bit more than the amount of
methanol used.
Now remove the Biodiesel from the container leaving the glycerine and
you are ready for the washing...
WASHING YOUR BIODIESEL
Although the glycerine or "soap" and water has separated from your
Biodiesel - it will still need washing. Please do not violently shake
your unwashed Biodiesel as it will form an emulsion that may take days
or evn weeks to fully seperate. The gentle approach is whats needed.
Wash One:
Pour 1 litre biodiesel into a a clean and dry plaric bottle.
Gently pour in 500ml water (body temp).
Replace bottle top.
Now GENTLY rotate the bottle end for end for about 30 seconds.
After 30 seconds place bottle upright.
Only If you have been GENTLE the water and Biodiesel will seperate
immediatly.
You will notice the water is not clear.
Remove top and using your thumb as a stopper, turn bottle upsidedown and
drain the water using your thumb as a valve.
You have finished wash one.
Wash Two:
Pour in another 500ml water and repeat wash one, except rotate GENTLY
for about 1 minute.
Drain as in wash one.
You have finished wash 2.
Wash Three:
Again pour in another 500ml water and GENTLY GENTLY GENTLY shake bottle
for a minute or so.
When water and biodiesel seperate discard water in same fashion as
before.
Wash Four:
Another 500ml water and a bit more aggitation for about 1 min.
After seperation of water and biodiesel Drain as above.
Wash Five:
You should now be able shake fairly vigerously.
If the washing has been completed sucessfully the water should be almost
clear. Be aware that in your later washes you should be able to shake
mre violently although it will take considerably longer to seperate
because the water forms tiny bubles in the biodiesel that take time to
settle out.
Your washed biodiesel will be VERY CLOUDY and much lighter in colour
than the unwashed biodiesel a. After a day or 2 settling and drying it
will clear
Your Biodiesel is now ready for use!
